Living On the Lake - Lake Wylie Magazine

Published: Tuesday, Jul. 13, 2010 / Updated: Wednesday, Jul. 14, 2010 03:27 PM

See the secrets of Italy, including Twilight Saga site

- news@lakewyliepilot.com

US Airways recently started daily nonstop service between Charlotte and Rome. Getting to Italy has now become much more convenient from our area with no connecting flights.

The dollar has rallied recently against the Euro making European travel more affordable. With this in mind, we decided to take the opportunity and visit the Italian countryside around Tuscany.

Upon arrival at the Rome airport, we picked up our rental car and headed north along the Italian auto strata. There are a number of interesting Medieval hill towns in Italy. One of our favorite towns is Orvieto. It’s an ancient hill town dating back to before the 10th century, located in Umbria, about midway between Rome and Florence, just south of Tuscany.

The town sits atop a large butte of an extinct volcano with dramatic cliffs that rise almost vertically. This part of Italy is known for its truffles, and you want to take advantage of this when dining in any of the many fine restaurants found throughout the town. They also produce fine wines here, mostly white, blends of the Trebbiano and Grechetto grape varieties. The town is known for pottery and art, and there are many shops and boutiques that will be happy to sell you examples. We spent our first night in Orvieto enjoying local wines and dinner entrees enhanced by truffles.

The town has some beautiful structures including the Duomo, a Cathedral erected in 1290 and dedicated by Pope Nicholas IV. This area was so important that beginning in the 11th century, the popes maintained a Papal residence here.

There is more here, however, than meets the eye. Unbeknownst to most tourists, there is a labyrinth of secret caves and tunnels with hidden rooms, passageways and escape routes created centuries ago. This underground city can be visited only by special guided tours.

A short distance away is Castiglione del Lago, a large lake. Because of its strategic position, this area has been a prized geographical commodity. The area has a fierce history and control has moved from the Etruscans to the Romans, to the Tuscans, to the Perugians. In the 13th century, stability was finally ensured. The Castello del Leone (Fortress of the Lion) sits atop a hill and looms over the lake. There are beautiful scenic views from the castle. In the spring, there is the “Coloriamo I Cieli” (color of the skies) festival featuring hot air balloons and thousands of multicolored kites. The beautiful countryside has rolling hills and vineyards dot the landscape. We found a very nice bed and breakfast near the lakefront.

One of the best known hill towns in Tuscany is Montepulciano, a medieval and Renaissance town known worldwide for its wines and food production. It’s easy to go into art overload visiting the beautiful Cathedrals and churches here. A contemporary aside is the town was featured as the setting for the Volturic Stronghold of Volterra in the film “New Moon” in the Twilight Saga. This is a very popular tourist area and most people stay in the trendy town of Chianciano, a few miles to the south.

Chianciano has many upscale hotels, restaurants, boutiques and other fine shops. We so loved the area that we spent four days here. We found a hilltop hotel outside of town adjacent to, and with views, of Montepulciano. From here, we took day trips to the nearby town of Penza, and the Medieval hill town Montalcino, which is known for its famous Brunello di Montalcino wine, as well as for the quality of the olive oil produced here.

Tuscany is truly one of the most beautiful and romantic places in the world. Time passes easily as you stroll along ancient streets, view panoramic vistas, or enjoy a fine meal in a garden café. The area possesses a tranquil quality that enriches the spirit. The people are friendly and helpful. The local wines and food are wonderful.

Unfortunately, we only had a single week. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t have time to visit Siena, Florence or venture into Rome. We’ll just have to go back!

Jim and Marie Oskins of Fort Mill live on Lake Wylie. They write a monthly column, Wine Time, for the Lake Wylie Pilot.

Want to go?

Getting There: US Airways offers daily nonstop service between Charlotte and Rome aboard an Airbus A330 wide body aircraft featuring business and coach class service. Flight 720 departs Charlotte at 6:15 p.m. and arrives in Rome at 9:30 a.m. the next morning. The return flight 721 departs Rome at 11:05 a.m. and arrives in Charlotte at 3:55 p.m. the same day. Reservation may be booked online at usairways.com or by calling 1-800-428-4322. Other airlines also serve Rome through connecting cities.

Getting Around: Italy is well connected by train and also features good, usually well marked roads. If you’re interested in visiting the Italian countryside or other parts of Italy, you can do so by train or rental car. Both methods have advantages. Rental cars offer the most flexibility as you can go wherever you wish on your own schedule. Many cities, towns and villages, however, were built before cars were numerous and parking can sometimes be scarce. Trains can be very affordable. There are a variety of ticketing and pass options available. For additional information visit italiarail.com.

Airport to Rome: The Rome, Leonardo da Vinci International (Fiumicino) airport is located more than 20 miles from central Rome. It is connected by train, bus and taxi. Taxi service between hotels and the airport can be very expensive. Connecting via bus or train to Termini Station and then by taxi to your hotel can save you a lot of money.

Rental Cars: Most major rental car companies serve Rome. We recommend advance reservations and picking up and dropping off rental cars at the airport. The rental car companies are centralized within the airport and are easily accessible via footbridge from the arrival/departure terminal.

Train Service: The train station at the airport is accessible via footbridge from the arrival/departure terminal. Service to and from Rome is twice each hour beginning at 6:35 a.m. until 11:37 p.m.

Hotel Vans: Some city hotels provide service to the airport but usually on a scheduled basis, not on demand. Check with your hotel in advance of arrival to see what time and where they service the airport.

Hotel Recommendation: The Hotel Panaromic is located on a hilltop about a mile from Montepulciano. It’s a three star hotel in a tranquil setting with large rooms, great views and is surprisingly affordable. For additional information or to make reservations, visit hotelpanoramic.com. If you stay there tell them we sent you.

Restaurant Recommendations: We recommend reservations to:

Le Grotte Del Funaro – Via Ripa, Serancia 41, Orvieto, tel: 073 343276. You walk down into a cavern at this elegant restaurant. Fabulous food with many truffle dishes. Great views of the countryside through the stone windows.

La Grotta – Via di S. Biagio 15, Montepulciano, tel: 0578 757479. This Michelin-rated restaurant has a manicured outdoor garden. The food is fantastic. The service is gracious without being pretentious. The staff will probably be better dressed than you are.

Look for Jim and Marie Oskins winery suggestion for “When in Rome ...” in next week’s Lake Wylie Pilot.

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