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US Airways recently started daily nonstop service between Charlotte and Rome. Getting to Italy has now become much more convenient from our area with no connecting flights.
The dollar has rallied recently against the Euro making European travel more affordable. With this in mind, we decided to take the opportunity and visit the Italian countryside around Tuscany.
Upon arrival at the Rome airport, we picked up our rental car and headed north along the Italian auto strata. There are a number of interesting Medieval hill towns in Italy. One of our favorite towns is Orvieto. It’s an ancient hill town dating back to before the 10th century, located in Umbria, about midway between Rome and Florence, just south of Tuscany.
The town sits atop a large butte of an extinct volcano with dramatic cliffs that rise almost vertically. This part of Italy is known for its truffles, and you want to take advantage of this when dining in any of the many fine restaurants found throughout the town. They also produce fine wines here, mostly white, blends of the Trebbiano and Grechetto grape varieties. The town is known for pottery and art, and there are many shops and boutiques that will be happy to sell you examples. We spent our first night in Orvieto enjoying local wines and dinner entrees enhanced by truffles.
The town has some beautiful structures including the Duomo, a Cathedral erected in 1290 and dedicated by Pope Nicholas IV. This area was so important that beginning in the 11th century, the popes maintained a Papal residence here.
There is more here, however, than meets the eye. Unbeknownst to most tourists, there is a labyrinth of secret caves and tunnels with hidden rooms, passageways and escape routes created centuries ago. This underground city can be visited only by special guided tours.
A short distance away is Castiglione del Lago, a large lake. Because of its strategic position, this area has been a prized geographical commodity. The area has a fierce history and control has moved from the Etruscans to the Romans, to the Tuscans, to the Perugians. In the 13th century, stability was finally ensured. The Castello del Leone (Fortress of the Lion) sits atop a hill and looms over the lake. There are beautiful scenic views from the castle. In the spring, there is the “Coloriamo I Cieli” (color of the skies) festival featuring hot air balloons and thousands of multicolored kites. The beautiful countryside has rolling hills and vineyards dot the landscape. We found a very nice bed and breakfast near the lakefront.
One of the best known hill towns in Tuscany is Montepulciano, a medieval and Renaissance town known worldwide for its wines and food production. It’s easy to go into art overload visiting the beautiful Cathedrals and churches here. A contemporary aside is the town was featured as the setting for the Volturic Stronghold of Volterra in the film “New Moon” in the Twilight Saga. This is a very popular tourist area and most people stay in the trendy town of Chianciano, a few miles to the south.
Chianciano has many upscale hotels, restaurants, boutiques and other fine shops. We so loved the area that we spent four days here. We found a hilltop hotel outside of town adjacent to, and with views, of Montepulciano. From here, we took day trips to the nearby town of Penza, and the Medieval hill town Montalcino, which is known for its famous Brunello di Montalcino wine, as well as for the quality of the olive oil produced here.
Tuscany is truly one of the most beautiful and romantic places in the world. Time passes easily as you stroll along ancient streets, view panoramic vistas, or enjoy a fine meal in a garden café. The area possesses a tranquil quality that enriches the spirit. The people are friendly and helpful. The local wines and food are wonderful.
Unfortunately, we only had a single week. We only scratched the surface. We didn’t have time to visit Siena, Florence or venture into Rome. We’ll just have to go back!
Jim and Marie Oskins of Fort Mill live on Lake Wylie. They write a monthly column, Wine Time, for the Lake Wylie Pilot.
Want to go?
Le Grotte Del Funaro – Via Ripa, Serancia 41, Orvieto, tel: 073 343276. You walk down into a cavern at this elegant restaurant. Fabulous food with many truffle dishes. Great views of the countryside through the stone windows.
La Grotta – Via di S. Biagio 15, Montepulciano, tel: 0578 757479. This Michelin-rated restaurant has a manicured outdoor garden. The food is fantastic. The service is gracious without being pretentious. The staff will probably be better dressed than you are.
Look for Jim and Marie Oskins winery suggestion for “When in Rome ...” in next week’s Lake Wylie Pilot.
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