• E-Mail
• Print
• Larger
• Smaller

Published: Tuesday, Jul. 20, 2010 / Updated: Tuesday, Jul. 20, 2010 11:38 AM

In the spirit for Italian wines, history

If you’re a wine lover and fortunate enough to find yourself in Rome, there’s an attraction you won’t want to miss. It’s not one you’ll find in the guide books.

Enoteca Costantini located in the Piazza Cavour is an experience. It’s more that just a wine and spirits shop.

Don’t be misled when you walk in the door. The well-lit upstairs section has an interesting selection of more than 1,000 varieties of spirits but the real story awaits you downstairs, down the winding staircase. Each step downward takes you to a cellar where, as you enter, you’ll probably utter “Oh my!”

The cellar has side tunnel after side tunnel each stocked with more bottles of wine than can fill your imagination. Upon entering it might take a moment to regain your composure. It’s that impressive. You’ll find a total of more than 4,000 different labels from around the world. Take your time and browse.

Like many attractions in Rome, this one has a sense of history. In this case, it’s the history of Italian wine. You’ll find bottles from different eras, all the way back to an 1891 bottle of Brunello di Montalcino Biondi Santi Riserva. The cellar is filled with interesting bottles, many that come with history and stories. The knowledgeable staff, many who speak English, will be glad to assist you and answer whatever questions you might have. They can tell you about the wines and bring the stories to life. They’ll also be glad to help you pick out that special bottle or to help you ship a bottle.

Rome is an ancient city and many buildings have been built on top of ruins from earlier construction. Although the cellar might appear to be part of a Roman subterranean catacomb system, it was actually constructed in 1972 when Piero and Rosy Costantini began laying the foundation for what would become one of the world’s great wine shops. The shop is in close proximity to the Vatican wall, however, and all manner of things might well have been at this location in times past.

While in the cellar, it’s OK to let your imagination go a bit. Imagination and inspiration are two components that make wine the wonderful thing that it is.

Next door to the Enoteca is Ristorante Il Simposio. It’s an upscale restaurant and wine bar featuring a large selection of premium wines you can order by the glass. The two establishments work together and wines served in the restaurant may be purchased in the Enoteca. Enoteca Costantini is located at 16 Piazza Cavour 00193 Rome, Italy. The phone number is +39 06 320575 or visit online at pierocostantini.it.

Tuscany is located in the heart of Italy. Rolling hills provide scenic views from the many hill towns that dot the landscape. Wonderful produce and some of the very best wines produced in Italy, or in the world for that matter, come from this area.

One of these is Brunello di Montalcino. To truly appreciate this wine, you need to know a little of its background. Montalcino is a medieval hill town located about 70 miles south of Florence. This location is one of the warmest and driest in Tuscany and there are a variety of soil types in this limited area that give complexity to the grapes. The wine itself is made from the Sangiovese grape as are many other wines in Italy.

Grapevines, however, even those of the same type, are not always equal. Grapevines mutate and different clones of the same grape will exhibit different characteristics. This particular strain of Sangiovese, known as Sangiovese Grosso and called Brunello, which roughly translates as “little dark one” has been around since the 14th century. In the 19th century Clemente Santi isolated this particular clone and in the 1860s planted vineyards in the hills surrounding the town. The climate and soil types of the area are ideal for this grape and it grows here like no place else.

He produced a wine that was dark in color, big and powerful in taste, with the structure to age well over long periods of time. He and his family are perfectionists and only declared “vintage” years when conditions were perfect, as they were in only 1888, 1891, 1925 and 1945.

The Biondi-Santi family pretty much had things to themselves until after WWII and the wine was virtually unknown outside Italy. In the mid 1960s, there were a total of 11 producers of Brunello di Montalcino. In 1970, the Biondi-Santi family and some of the other local winemakers held a tasting for international journalists. The 1888 and 1891 vintages were still pristine and the wine became an overnight sensation. Today there are more than 200 producers.

Wine is produced in every region of Italy. The Italian classification system of wines is complex, esoteric and can be confusing. In 1980, Brunello di Montalcino was granted “DOCG” status, which is the highest rating within the Italian system. Any wine labeled “Brunello di Montalcino” must be made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso grapes grown within the confines of Montalcino. In addition, the wines must be aged at least four years, two of which must be in wooden barrels. To be labeled “Reserva” it must be aged five years.

Along with being one of the finest wines of Italy Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most expensive. Bottles of this wine will probably retail locally beginning at about $40. A less expensive alternative is Rosso di Montalcino. It’s a DOC wine made from 100 Sangiovese grapes from the same area. It’s aged for a minimum of one year with six months in wooden barrels. Brunello is not a wine that is imported in large quantity. If you have the opportunity to try a bottle, treat yourself. It’s a wine you’ll long remember.

Bruschetta is a simple Italian toasted bread dish usually served as an antipasta or prelude to a meal. It only involves a few components. At this time of the year, herbs and vegetables are fresh with enhanced flavors and can blend together as if to elevate a melody to a symphony. We recommend heirloom tomatoes, which you can find at local farmers markets.

French bread

2 medium tomatoes, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbs. fresh basil, minced

2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

Slice the bread into one-half to three-quarters inch thick pieces, brush both sides with olive oil and toast over an open flame or grill until just slightly crisp. In a bowl combine the remainder of the olive oil with the rest of the ingredients, spoon generously on top of the bread and serve.

Jim and Marie Oskins live on Lake Wylie in Fort Mill. For questions about wine and food, e-mail winetime@comporium.net.