Published: Monday, Feb. 13, 2012 / Updated: Friday, Feb. 10, 2012 04:35 PM
Wine Time: Wine labeling perplexes
In last month’s column, we looked at wine labels from the point of view of consumers. We talked about how producers try to make their wine stand out and be attractive so you’ll buy it. Well, producers have to be careful with their labels. There is nothing more regulated than what goes on a label of a wine bottle.
Labels must include specific information that conforms to the laws of not only where it is bottled, but also wherever the wine is to be sold. These regulations can be confusing and very technical.
Most winemakers bottle multiple varieties of wine every year. Each label must carry specific information about the content, including the country of origin, type of wine, alcoholic content, quantity of wine in the bottle, vintage, bottler, producer, and if applicable, importer. In addition, some countries require government warning relating to components of the wine or winemaking process. Each category can vary from country to country, state to state and can even be regional.
Labels must be accurate. Producers have incurred large fines for marketing mislabeled wines. In Oregon, the grape known elsewhere as “Pinot Grigio” must be labeled “Pinot Gris.” In different parts of France, the term “Chateau” has different restrictions. Zinfandel and Primitivo are genetically identical grapes, but the vines look different and have different growing characteristics. In Italy, either name can appear on the label. In the US, they must be listed on the label by whichever name the rootstock carries.
Small details are important. If you see the words “fermented in this bottle” on a label of champagne or sparkling wine it indicates that it was made in the method champenoise, the traditional French method. If the label says it was “fermented in the bottle” then it was made with another, less labor intensive process. Differences in the processes can be very significant.
Labels of course have to be ordered in advance of bottling. These restrictions can make them expensive, especially if the winemaker makes wine in small lots such as from specific vineyards, wants to label them with that designation, and ships to a lot of places.
While not required, many wines carry a back label. This is where the winemaker has an opportunity to tell you about what’s inside the bottle. Winemakers take a lot of pride in the wines they make. Their information is subjective, creative and usually in flowery language. Back labels can be fun and interesting to read but they may or may not be of much help in letting you know what the wine will actually taste like. Trying to determine what the wine will taste like from the information on the label can be challenging. Knowing the type of grape(s), origin and vintage can give you a general idea of what to expect, but wines can differ drastically from one year to another. We recommend buying wines in a shop where the knowledgeable staff can assist you.
If you think labels are confusing, pity the winemaker. We were discussing wine labels with Andre Badenhorst, winemaker for Thorn Tree wines of South Africa. They bottle wines for shipment around the world. He’d just bottled 5,000 cases (60,000 bottles) of Sauvignon Blanc shipped to the UK. He was looking at the label on one of the bottles and he knew something wasn’t right but couldn’t figure out what it might be. He called his lawyer and over an expensive phone call they analyzed ever word on the label. Finally they got to “alcohol content 13.2 percent” and decided that item needed scrutiny. After checking international regulations for the UK, his lawyer got back to him. In the UK, wine imports must state the alcohol content as rounded to the nearest half-percent. In other words, his labels would have to show the alcohol content as “13.0 percent.” Oops! The solution was they’d have to place a sticker with the alcohol content shown as required over what was printed on the label. This wasn’t a process that a machine could do. Each bottle had to be done by hand.
Wine recommendations
February is definitely a month for romance. Sparkling wines have an added dimension of sensitivity as the bubbles roll across your tongue. With that in mind we’ve recommended a trio of sparkling wines.
Shooting Star 2009 – Black Bubbles – Lake County, Calif., about $18. This Syrah blend is the perfect wine for Valentine’s Day. It’s dark and inky in color with flavors of plum and dark berries. It will go with a variety of meats, chicken and desserts.
Jim and Marie Oskins live on Lake Wylie in Fort Mill. They can be reached at wintime@comporium.net.
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